Protein has come for water, coffee, and now moisturizers

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Protein has officially escaped the gym.

After infiltrating cereal, coffee, ice cream, and even pancake mix, the nutrient is now making its way into skin care aisles, where yogurt and protein-infused creams promise everything from plumper skin to stronger collagen.

While there is some evidence that ingredients like peptides can provide anti-aging benefits, the direct application of proteins derived from yogurt or collagen is largely ineffective when it comes to reducing wrinkles or anti-aging, experts say.

Yet, the marketing of such products will have you believe otherwise.

“In general, there’s a lot of protein, especially in Greek yogurt, specifically casein and whey—these are very large proteins,” Dr. Aegean H. Chan, a board-certified dermatologist, told Retail Brew. “Essentially, the mechanism is they’re just sitting on top of the skin, and they help hydrate the skin. They can help bind water so you’ll essentially temporarily moisturize the skin.”

Comparing it to ingredients like hyaluronic acid, she added that these proteins “sit in the lines,” plumping them up while you’re using the product but there is no evidence behind claims of them “increasing production of elastic fibers or collagen.”

Skin in the game: Lena Philippou Korres, co-founder of the Greece-based beauty brand Korres, which has gained a cult status for its natural skin care products often using items like Greek yogurt, agreed. The beauty veteran has been directly involved in the creation of many of the brand’s popular formulations, including its Greek Yoghurt line of products.

A spin on its original formula, the brand also recently introduced an updated “Smart Yoghurt” line that incorporates additional microbiome-focused testing technologies and a new serum designed to help rebalance sensitive skin.

“The whole formulation does not target collagen production per se,” Philippou Korres said. “The whole system is absolutely super advanced in targeting [and] rebalancing the microbiome, building the skin barrier, hydrating, and plumping.”

Far from suggesting that yogurt proteins could stimulate collagen, she added that it would be scientifically inaccurate.

“I’m a chemical engineer and a formulator for 30 years,” Philippou Korres said. “I can tell you, this is not possible, and we should not claim to do anything the products [cannot do].”

Instead, she said, Korres directs consumers specifically looking for anti-aging benefits to other product lines designed for that purpose.

“If a customer is mostly looking for collagen production, we have lines like Black Pine that are exactly doing that,” Philippou Korres said.

Although both skin care experts and founders say otherwise, the trend continues to gain traction across the beauty market. So why are consumers buying into it?

Naturally: “It’s a really great story,” Chan said. “It sort of ties back to nature, the raw milk trend, that natural is better. I don’t think the trend ever left, but I do think there is more interest in using products that are perceived as natural.”

Pointing out that while most of these products do deliver on basic moisturization and hydration benefits, Chan said what’s more concerning is the “fearmongering marketing tactics and kind of saying, ‘Well, this is more natural than other moisturizers. It’s yogurt.’ Who knows if that’s actually true, but I do think that it’s very appealing for the consumer, and especially if you can tell a story about it.”

But the marketing environment is evolving as consumers become more ingredient-savvy and skeptical of broad skin care claims. For brands leaning into trendy ingredients like probiotics or fermented foods, that scrutiny can make it even more important to clearly define what their products actually do.

Per a 2024 report, while 88% of consumers deemed authenticity “non-negotiable” when deciding what brands to support, 57% said the brand didn’t deliver on what they claim to stand for.

Similarly, McKinsey’s State of Beauty report notes that skin care shoppers, particularly younger consumers, are increasingly researching ingredients and seeking out brands that clearly explain the science behind their formulations.